Oh Village Life

Woman: Honey, there's a white man lying in the yard.

Man: What! Stop joking around.

Woman: No. I'm serious there's a white man lying under our Baobob Tree.

Man: What the hell are you on? You been drinking Sodobe this morning?

Woman: Fine don't believe. But he's laying down next to a bike eating some bread.

Man: If I have to come all the way out there (man walks out of house) to find you messing with m---holy jeez that's a giant yovo! All right. Nobody panic. Everyone just be cool, go back inside and maybe he'll go away.

Child: YOVO!!!! YOVO!!!! Bonsoir!!

Woman: Ah! Quiet child or we'll give you to the yovo.

Child: No!!! (child cries and runs away)



Or so that's how the conversation played out in my head as I lounged in the shade. Halfway between my village, Kamina, and the town of Pagala, which is to say, almost halfway to somewhere; so I took a much needed break from an exhausting bike ride.


I get my mail in Pagala, and upon asking my neighbor which trail goes to Pagala, he answered "Oui!" (My french needs some work). So I took off and headed north on my mountain bike. Actually the plan was to go to a closer village Tchifama, then Pagala the next day, but three forks in the road laterI found myself on the wrong side of a mountain and low on water. Pagala it is then! I reached it eventually, in four and a half hours through deep sand and creeks.

Riding through some of the more isolated villages was memorable. Seeing the looks on the children's faces was priceless. When was the last time they saw a white man? Ever?

My health has improved since last post. I have started cooking for myself and have been mostly avoiding Togolese food. I guess my body just couldn't handle the local cuisine. But now I'm eating pretty good. Getting creative with my relatively few available ingredients. I long for rainy season when mangos, pineapples, and avocados become readily available in my village. Until then I have put some amazing twists on macaroni and cheese. (Important news: I have discovered that eggs are available in my village. The place keeps getting better and better.)

My buddy and closest neighor James came and visited me last week. He only stayed for the day but we got into a conversation about how people's service in the PC can be so different from other's. Some volunteers have electricity, plumbing, real showers, and one even has satellite television. James and I have very rural posts so they are what might be more what you expect when you imagine the peace corps lifestyle. We both agreed that the absence of electricity and plumbing and manys types of food isn't all that bad. Sure I wish I had ESPN a little more often; but I survive. Besides, eating dinner by candlelight every evening really captures the classic romanticism of my life here. We agreed that the hardest part was being in a place where you don't know anyone and where no one speaks your language. It was a poignant moment for us both and further gave us reason to look forward to the future as we become more comfortable in our villages.

Quick note: For an idea on what village life is like; pick up The Poisonwood Bible by Barbara Kingsolver. Even though it takes place fifty years ago in the Congo, the descriptions of the everyday things are spot on for today as well.

Well hopefully I'll get to internet once a month or so for these posts; it's a pain in the butt getting to this city of Atakpame. About four hours to only go about 55 miles. Plus traveling forces me to buy street food so my body begins be to hate me again

Keep sending emails and comments. I appreciate everything. It is weird being completely separated from the news of the world; but also kind of nice. After years of studying and reading and following all different kinds of media as a journalism major it is nice to relax and just be blissfully ignorant about world events; for a few weeks at a time at least. But I am most interested in how all of you are personally doing. Peace Corps makes one into a bit of a gossip fiend.

Goodbye for now.